Manikarnika ghat varanasi

 

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Manikarnika Ghat also known as the burning ghat is the most prominent cremation place of Banaras and unlike any other in India. Most funeral pyres can be found burning at any given time at any place, and the constant procession of bodies wrapped in cloth and tied to bamboo stretchers comes to receive their final rites.

The folks who anticipate intimate captures of the cremations will not get them here. It seems wrong to shoot such intimate and emotional scenes. It is daunting even to view it at a respectable distance. So much is going on at the same time that one can hardly explain the experience. The first time I came I was standing some distance away silently just watching the life going on.

Mythical Foundation of the Name. Mata Sati, the wife of Lord Shiva, according to Hindu mythology dropped her earring (Manikarnika) at this point. The place became to be known as Manikarnika Ghat because of this divine event. Another belief is that the Lord Vishnu excavated a hole here using his chakra and Lord Shiva stuffed the hole with his sweat. This holy water source is known as the Manikarnika Kund that is still present within the ghat area.

It only took me a minute to see an incredible combination of a small puppy joyfully pulling at my footwear, several cremations going on around me, people and animals bathing in the river, man mending a boat, a newly married couple being blessed by the river, vendors selling boat rides, illegal drugs, and more. It was not possible to think of such a number of opposing moments in one place at the same time.

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Manikarnika is not feeling too sad, although it is a cremation ground. To Hindus, it is a blessing to perish in Banaras. Death is not dreaded here because it is said to provide moksha which is the absence of rebirth. The mood is serious, but peaceful, nearly patient, indicating profound religious acceptance of death.

The corpse of the dead is taken on the lanes of the Chauk area which are narrow and winding and then reach the ghat. It is immersed into the Ganga one more time and put on the funeral pyre. Clarified butter (ghee) is applied to the wood and powdered sandalwood is sprinkled over the body, and traditionally to aid in diminishing the odor of burning.

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The eldest son walks around the pyre wearing white and then lights the pyre. Crying or other signs of grief are not allowed to be shown publicly because they are considered to cause ill fortune to the spirit of the departed. The body is covered with heavy logs to prevent movement due to contraction of muscles in the burning and bamboo sticks are put to make sure the body is completely covered back to ash. After the cremation is done, the son snaps a clay pot containing Ganga water over his shoulder and walks away without glancing back.

Manikarnika Ghat, with temples on both sides of the river is a place that has consistently attracted painters, writers and photographers. It was one of the most familiar views of Banaras, until the first part of the 20 th century. Even historical pictures show the extent of transformation of the ghat in the last century in line with modern construction.

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Manikarna cremation rituals are widely operated by Dom people. They are in charge of the holy everlasting fire, they provide wood, build pyres, and receive payment to the cremations. Then, the ashes are thoroughly checked on valuables and then placed in the Ganga. The Dom Raja is the head of the community and is a hereditary post, and he lives next to the river.

The lanes around Manikarnika Ghat are also to be visited to have a real understanding of the same. These small streets are full of stores offering incense, shrouds, and ritual materials although wood is the most essential. There are big piles of logs which are cut and dipped in weight. Richer families can use expensive sandalwood and the less affluent use mango wood or even cow dung. In extreme instances, bodies are simply dumped to the river.

Manikarnika is in fact the name of a nearby holy well, Manikarnika Kund, which was believed to have been old even earlier than Kashi. Traditionally, the cremation place was called Jalasai Ghat, which translated to Sleeper on the Waters. A significant portion of the current stone construction was constructed in the 18 th century by Queen Ahilyabai Holka, and thus becoming the first stone ghat in Banaras.

The floods caused by the monsoon commonly drown portions of the ghat which is why cremations were moved to raised platforms built during the early 20 th century.

When a visitor arrives in Varanasi, he or she will find Manikarnika Ghat. It is situated in the middle of the long chain of ghats in the Ganga, and it is one side of India, powerful, spiritual, confronting, and unforgettable.