Terracotta Temples of Sukhadia
Sukharia (or Sukuria) is a village on the western bank of the Hooghly River in Hooghly, famous for its terracotta temple of Yunus. This village was once the home of the influential zamindar families of Bengal—especially the Mitra-Mustafi family, whose ostentatious nobility and wall-like buildings are still a source of economic confidence. Although the grandeur of their palaces has been lost, the terracotta temples are relatively well-protected from degradation and serve as a mark of respect to the historical architectural consciousness of Bengal.
The Ananda-Bhairavi Temple is one of the most important temples in the region. It is a rare panchavinsati-ratna (25 pinnacles) temple, built in 1813 by Bireshwar Mitra-Mustafi, the traditional successor of Shantadev Mitra-Mustafi. The temple is situated on the edge of serene Dingpukur, where the low crowd and serene atmosphere make the visit to the temple a kind of spiritual experience.
The temple has three floors. There are three total 12 peaks (3 × 4) on each side of the first floor, two total 8 peaks (2 × 4) on each side of the second floor, and a central peak with four corner peaks on the third floor, totaling five peaks. This structure is a unique symbol of the ancient Bengali royal temple style.
There is beautiful and vibrant terracotta work all over the outer walls of the temple. Here, the scenes of gods and goddesses, flowers and birds, and boat rides have been depicted in the design of the soil. Not only this, but the lives of the European soldiers and the villages of Bengal have also been depicted here—some are eating, some are cultivating the land, and in some places, the soldiers' war scenes have been depicted. The three-arched dimensions of the entrance are also richly ornamented, but repeated staining and plastering have lost much of the terracotta earthwork, which would make the temple seem entirely new to Kevin Standage.
Next to the Ananda-Bhairavi temple is the Harasundari Temple, a Navaratna (royal temple with nine peaks), and many other smaller temples—ten Atchala-style Shiva temples and two Pancharatna temples—built by Dewan Ramnidhi Mitra-Mustafi in 1814. The temple and the surrounding area have remained relatively healthy and clean since their renovation in 1968, and it currently houses an orphanage run by the Mitra-Mustafi family, Kevin Standage.
To understand the history of these temples, the first thing to know is about the Mitra-Mustafi family—these families were originally Kayastha accountants with the title of Mustafi, which was granted to them by Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1704. After Rameshwar Mitra Mustafi (died 1708) laid the foundation of their wealth at Birswar Marg, Roopkumari, as his wife was in charge of the temple and the government. Later, the next generation of the family, namely Tilakram Mitra-Mustafi, acquired lands at Sukhadia, Poonui, and Gopinagar in 1757 and built temples and palaces. Bireswar Mitra-Mustafi, nephew of Anantaram Mitra-Mustafi, led the construction of Ananda-Bhairavi Temple and Harsundari Temple in 1813.
These temples, the Ramayana, the Mahabharata, Krishna's pastimes, and the daily life of the village—all are carved in a unique combination of imagination and reality. They are an invaluable document of Bengal's heritage, rich history, and local art, not only in religious or artistic terms, but also in socio-cultural terms. Although the terracotta of some of the temples has decayed, the distinctive skull carvings and intricate motifs are still visible today.
At present, Sukhadia has become a village of a historical royal family in a way. Renovation of the temple is in progress. Locals are also keen to develop it as a heritage tourist village, as the mix of art, history, and village life makes it a paradise for tourists.
Short Conclusion
The terracotta temples of Sukhadia may not be the largest or the most famous in India, but they are invaluable for their art, history, and heritage. The relics of the Mitra-Mustafi family—such as the Ananda-Bhairabi and Harsundari temples—represent a valuable chapter in Bengali architecture, which retains the philosophy imbued in the culture of Bengal.
